We decided that it would be prudent to haul out Mowzel Cat to be cleaned & antifouled in preparation for our return to Australia. The last time this was done was in Raiatea last November & in fact the antifoul was overall, holding up pretty well. However, we face the daunting prospect of passing the strict Australian biosecurity inspection fairly soon and so we opted to ensure that the hull was looking spick & span on our arrival. It will also mean that we should have a faster passage, which is always welcome. It was also an opportunity to service the folding props and thoroughly check the rudders, steering, through hulls, service the engines etc before we embark on a couple of longer passages back to Aus.
So back to Vuda marina again, waiting for the tide to be high enough to facilitate Mowzel Cat’s foray onto dry land. All went pretty smoothly & in good time until the boatyard staff disappeared for lunch before the boat’s hull was pressure washed. This is when we discovered that ‘Fiji time’ can be a highly variable phenomenon, but not to be messed with when there is a rugby match on. Specifically Fiji versus Canada in the semifinals of the Pacific Nations cup. So no sign of any action for the next couple of hours! A neighbouring boat had some workmen sanding the hull – phone in one hand to view the action & the other hand vaguely brandishing the hull, which you can imagine did not translate to any meaningful progress! But Fiji won & in fact, went on to win the final which made for very happy Fijians!
We had rented an apartment through Airbnb a 10 minute walk way which was perfect for our needs. Bright & clean with all we needed for a comfortable stay including a washing machine! Oh the joy. It was given a rigorous work out over the next few days as we washed heaps of stuff including our saloon covers which now look much more respectable!
We visited the marina daily to check on progress and fortunately everything went to plan. Michael and the team at Summer Electrical did a great job and were a delight to work with. We took the opportunity to give the boat a really good clean inside including all the cupboards & bilges, so they look clean & tidy for our return to Oz. It wasn’t all hard work & we were able to enjoy sundowners at the Sunset Bar at the marina, which is a really pleasant environment as well as enjoy an evening meal out at a restaurant at one of the local resorts, (where we had previously been with our friends Piet & Kirsty for a very memorable birthday celebration!).
So back in the water as planned on Friday, refuelled & ready for our next step – the 5 day passage to New Caledonia. It was clear that the weather was not quite favourable for a quick departure, so this time we headed to the Mamanucas – an archipelago of islands closest to Lautoka. Many of these beautiful islands with archetypal palm fringed golden sand beaches are resorts, which limited our access to anchorages in the area as cruisers are not always welcome. Or they charged an exorbitant fee just to step foot on their island – fair enough I guess as the islands are privately owned & and offer exclusivity & privacy for their guests.
So we discovered Mana Island, which welcomes cruisers despite there being multiple resorts. The best news for us however, was a flat calm lagoon with lots of opportunities for snorkelling on the outer reef. The only downside was the rather intimidating entrance – a long, narrow and shallow passage with a dogleg halfway with a few sticks marking the channel. As we arrived we saw a sailing yacht grounded on the reef – it had happened that morning when they accidentally went the wrong side of a marker. That was a bit alarming! Good news for the boat however, as they were able to float off the reef once the tide was high enough with a little help from the locals – apart from a few scratches on the hull & a rather embarrassing situation for experienced sailors as they were – all ended well.
Despite a strong wind warning being in place the whole time we were there, we found the winds mostly very subdued as we were in the wind shadow of Viti Levu. The winds were unpredictable however and we experienced them coming from all directions during our stay, with a pattern of stronger winds in the evening. Initially there were only 5 or 6 boats in the anchorage, but for some reason it became a very popular meeting place and soon there were 17 boats all vying for space & trying not to be too close to their neighbours as they swung around 360degrees!
We didn’t venture ashore to the resort, but enjoyed some lovely snorkelling with healthy coral & lots of small fish – also a couple of turtles, (although resembling fast moving underwater projectiles), which was nice for a change.
One day we had a day trip to Nautanivono – an uninhabited small island 3 miles away with a gorgeous beach that we initially had to ourselves & great snorkelling around the edge of the reef. It was almost windless & very reminiscent of French Polynesia in the lovely Tuamotus, where you would drop the anchor into crystal clear water & have an island to yourself!
We had equivocated about going to Musket Cove, mainly because the resort is a yachting hub & can get really busy. In fact there was a regatta there a couple of weeks ago & we counted over 150 boats at anchor on NoForeignLand, an app that we use, designed for cruisers full of excellent information. Not really our scene! But we spent one night at anchor in the large bay at Musket Cove & rather than a visit a resort, we headed out through the inner reef & towards the outer reef which was only 3 miles away. I wish we had discovered it earlier – absolutely ticked all our boxes with a large sandy spot to drop the anchor in total isolation, translucent aqua water, several large bommies to explore, healthy colourful corals & fish, cowries galore and finally, turtles which were not spooked by our presence. I’d often bemoaned the fact to Bill that we had rarely seen these elegant marine reptiles in all our travels. Or if we had, they were usually scooting away from us at a 100mph! Here however, the turtles weren’t particularly fussed & obligingly glided around in front of us posing for the perfect shot!
It was an absolute highlight on which to end our experience in Fiji. One rich in fabulous marine life, gorgeous people, confusing winds & pretty anchorages. We had to head back to Denerau, buy a few provisions for the passage & complete the necessary exit formalities with the officials. One very fine lunch at a waterfront fish restaurant & then time to leave.
We were very glad we gave ourselves time this trip to explore Fiji and yet there is so much more we could have seen.
Bula vinata Fiji!
A very Fijian Farewell. Not us of course, but this is how the folk at Vuda Marina farewell yachts that have checked out and leaving Fiji. Very special and so typically generous and Fijian.